Of course, some folks have little choice in their area.
Tucker Milling feeds smell fresh, nothing that makes you hold your nose when you scoop them. Third, Purina feeds just stink like chemicals to me. I think I pay $11 for that, would have to check the ticket from today. Second, it's much more expensive than the 22% layer pellets we buy, Tucker Milling brand. I prefer animal protein in my feeds for better feather quality and energy. Well, first of all, I don't use Flock Raiser because it's vegetarian feed.
They get excited about it but NO diminishing of nutrients! But I do buy pellets and throw those out as "scratch" or a treat on occasion. I guess, often having chicks is probably another reason I will stick with the crumble. For ME the flock raiser is the best (not perfect) choice. I'm a huge label reader and spent lot's of time last year exploring my options. But alas I have not found any PERFECT feed with regards to nutrients, ingredients, and cost. I wish they didn't (recently decided to) include DE, which is approved by the FDA at up to 2% as an anti caking agent. The level is 55 ppm, which is the correct amount for ducks to not develop leg issues due to deficiency. when I got ducks I contacted Purina to find out what their level of niacin was since it isn't listed on the bag and that is a KEY nutrient for ducks. Balance is definitely key.Īlso, noting the word Muscovy in your user name. To me there is also a point of too much protein, which could also cause kidney issues but for different reasons than too much calcium. And feathers are made up of 90% protein, being one reason why show breeders often go with higher (28%) in order to get healthier, shinier looking feathers. It's the amino acids in the protein that are important (and some of which need to come from an animal source but substituted as an added nutrient similar to cereal vitamins and minerals). not realizing that the feed was balanced and what they just added had little to no nutritional value and diminished their protein level. Most mine are not light bodied but dual purpose and I don't go for minimum nutrition, which can especially be effected by people who think they are giving their birds "good" lettuce or fruits and veggies. In addition, 16% protein is the MINIMUM needed to sustain a LIGHT bodied hen in good condition. But knowing too much, I prefer the oyster shell on the side. Many feed their rooster and hens (even chicks) layer for their whole life and still live 8-9 years. I don't want my longer term roos to *possibly* have kidney issues caused by the extra calcium. That is one reason I use flock raiser instead of layer as well.